"The high surf is due to large swells generated earlier this week by a large low pressure system that was producing gale-force winds pointed at Hawaii over a large area," says The Weather Channel's Hurricane Expert Dr. Rick Knabb.
"The low pressure system (creating this week's waves) is between 1500 and 2000 miles northwest of Hawaii, " says Dr. Knabb.
- It's great news for surfers who have been hitting the beaches en masse. The National Weather Service has issued a High Surf Warning for all north and west facing shores of Oahu, Kaua.
"Winter is the big surf season in Hawaii," reports Dr. Knabb.
- The public is advised to stay well away from the shoreline in the affected areas and should be prepared for possible road closures.
- Surf will peak between 25 and 35 feet on north and west facing shores of Kauai and Niihau, and the north facing shores of Oahu, Molokai and Maui. Peak surf along the west facing shores of Oahu and Molokai will be 18 to 22 feet.